Dear All,

It’s been on my mind for a few months to revive the Navidad En Bolivia concept in 2009. Last year we raised $3300 by selling sponsorships for specific needs we had identified within 3 Bolivian orphanages. The project was blessed with many people keen to make it happen, and strong interest from our home communities in the USA and Australia.

Obviously, there is no shortage of need in Bolivia. This year we have involved a total of 7 Bolivian ministries:

• Bolivia Children’s Mission.
• Operation Harvest – Centro Pequeno Rebano.
• Zona Frutillar Orphanage, IOU Bolivia.
• Food for the Hungry- Carpentry Ministry.
• New Ministry: “Children of the Light”
• El Centro de Amistad – “The Center”.
• Casa de Amor.

I have seen most of these ministries in person, and can guarantee all are doing effective, Godly work. I feel privileged to be able to help them in this way, and I encourage you to dig deep and help our Bolivian friends.

So how does it work?

1. Visit www.navidadenbolivia.info and click on “The List”.
2. Review the list of available sponsorships (updated daily) and make a selection that fits your budget.
3. You can submit your request using the form provided on that webpage, or contact Renae or myself if you know us.
4. An NeB contact will be in touch to confirm your sponsorship, and provide payment details.

All of the money you provide goes straight to the identified need. NeB team members will cover any administrative costs that arise.

With the support of many we will provide for Bolivia a passenger van, data projector, stacks of new clothes, personalised Christmas gifts for over 50 children, baby formula, internet access, branding for a new ministry, a new computer, new carpentry tools, and much, much more!!!

Please support Navidad En Bolivia.

Kind regards,

Adrian Nickols.

Here is the second snippet in the Unpacking Bolivia series, delivered in June 2009.

Quick Quiz (you can find the answers at this bottom of this post)

1. Which is the constitutional capital of Bolivia?
2. What is the name of the controversial indigenous president of Bolivia?
3. What is the highest capital city in the world?
4. What is the dominant religion of Bolivia?

In my second talk I responded to several more questions received in the weeks leading up to my talks. I have included a summary of these responses below:

Would you do it again?

Yes. I’d recommend it to anyone!

What was the biggest surprise you learned about yourself?

There are several things which surprised me…

I’m quite attached to small pleasures, and sought to fill the void in Bolivia. (Cochabamba is a very functional city, with plenty to offer in this regard – movies, shopping, icecreams, and uber-tasty Bolivian food.

At the same time, I had no trouble separating myself from larger indulgences like the car, TV, income, and enjoyed being free of responsibility/possessions. I thoroughly enjoyed getting my hands and feet dirty when out and about, holding manky hand rails on public trufis, wearing smelly clothes, sweating buckets, playing in the dirt with kids, and eating ‘different’ foods.

I found that the language barrier made me want to shy away from social situations. At times I found it quite difficult to motivate myself socially where it was evident that I would not be speaking English at all. This left me feeling quite vulnerable. Nevertheless, there were times when the message got through – these times were very rewarding.

Are there many Corollas in Bolivia?

Yes, lots. The assortment of vehicles in Bolivia is similar to Australia, just replace the Holdens and Fords with American pick-ups and SUVs.

When it comes to driving, the road lines mean nothing, the red lights are just a guide and the horn is an essential survival tool. If you drive a car in Bolivia, expect dents, scratches, protests, cows and chickens, pot holes and unmarked road humps.

What are some of the aspects of South American churches that we could learn from as a whole?

Latin Americans embrace family and community. It is very natural for them, just part of the culture. When gathering, Bolivians will circulate and greet each person, even if they don’t know them. The customary greeting involves a handshake/pat on back/handshake combo between males, and a handshake/smooch combo between males and females. Bolivians will also acknowledge each person individually before leaving a gathering.

Am I suggesting we start greeting each other in this way? No, and it wouldn’t take off anyway. But consider the value of personally acknowledging each person in the room… our networks would grow exponentially, and it wouldn’t take as long for new people to feel welcome!

Were you ever in danger (physical harm etc)?
Opportunistic crime is common in Bolivia, and people around me lost cameras, wallets, hand bags etc. We tried to remain watchful of our belongings and each other when leaving the house. During political events and national holidays many foreigners would enter lock-down (we took time off the streets, staying together in one house). The ‘vibe’ in the city felt somewhat hostile during these times.

I felt that without common sense, Bolivia would be a dangerous place. I wouldn’t say that we were ever in danger of physical harm, but harm has come to foreigners in Bolivia in the past and it paid not to grow complacent about personal security.

You have obviously seen things that are almost beyond our comprehension. Given our shelteredness in Tasmania, how can we as a church, practically respond to help people living in poverty here and overseas?

The bible says a lot about the poor, and our response to poverty…

If you refuse to listen to the cry
of the poor, Your own cry will not be heard.
[Proverbs 21:13]

“Sell your possessions and give to those in need. This will store up treasure for you in heaven! And the purses of heaven never get old or develop holes. Your treasure will be safe; no thief can steal it and no moth can destroy it.
[Luke 12:33]

It is important to respond to poverty in the world. The problem is, without visiting the developing world, how can we understand the issues/difficulties facing the world’s poorest people?

Well, there’s never been a better time to be connected.

I’ve put together some suggestions which you may find helpful:

1. Highlight the issues that inspire you the most. The fact is, we can’t respond to all of the world’s problems. So which do you feel most strongly about? I’ve grown quite fond of Latin America and the issues faced by its people. You may be moved by current issues facing the people of Sri Lanka, China, Iraq, or at home among the migrant population or homeless. Focus your thoughts in these areas through the following steps.
2. Research!
   • Keep up to date with the latest by reading newspapers and web articles from reputable sources.
   • Find out who has been to your place of interest and talk to them about it.
   • Source contact details for missionaries through your local church. Write to missionaries directly.
3. Commit to pray for the specific issues. Pray too that the Holy Spirit would keep you passionate about the issues that you see in the world, and lead you towards action.
4. Support the nation financially by donating to well-managed projects/programs.
5. Challenge Western thinking. Keep Christmas gifts small, instead giving gifts to the developing world. Sponsor a child. Move away from discussions about the latest brands and technology. Challenge common priorities like career, money, investments, education, and instead CHOOSE LIFE.
6. Look for opportunities to visit the developing world or to support others who are planning a trip. Fundraising is an important part of mission so don’t let finance deter you from planning a trip.

Navidad En Bolivia

Finally, I wanted to mention the success of the Navidad En Bolivia, a fundraising project aiming to meet some of the very real needs felt by a number of Bolivian orphanages at Christmas 2008 (Click here for a full list of sponsorships. Some recent photos below).

The project was blessed in many ways, and I was pleased to extend the list of sponsorships to accommodate the overwhelming support from folks in Australia, the United States, and Canada.

The Navidad En Bolivia raised AU$5400 for 3 Bolivian orphanages. I hope to revive this project ahead of Christmas 2009.

Thanks for reading!

Rene by Pool Fencing at BCM

Nilda and Elisabeth by shelving at BCM

Fun Quiz Answers

1. Sucre. La Paz is considered the co-capital, and is the administrative centre of Bolivia, while Sucre is the governmental centre.
2. Evo Morales, a socialist leading seeking to redistribute wealth between the rich and poor.
3. La Paz (3600m). Following the domination of Tibet by China, Lhasa lost its title as the highest city in the world.
4. Catholicism. Around 77% of Bolivians claim membership of the Roman Catholic church.

I felt I should publish some thoughts I have shared at Wellspring church since returning from Bolivia. Here is the first talk, delivered in May 2009.

Young Kids, Tough Lives

I began by outlining some of the more difficult circumstances encountered by the children I met in Bolivia.

  Viviana

Viviana grew up in the Bolivian jungle. She was orphaned at 3, and survived the next 3 years on hand-outs, sleeping in different houses and huts. At age 6, she fell (or was pushed) backwards into a fire, and received burns to 60% of her body.

She spent up to 36 hours alone after the incident – a reflection of life in the jungle. By the grace of God a missionary pilot visited the village around this time and was able to transport Viviana to the city of Cochabamba. The village remains inaccessible by road.

In Cochabamba, Viviana was cared for by Mike and Bonnie Timmer who were developing an orphanage ministry in the city. The Timmers provided Viviana with the treatment she needed, including physical therapy 3 times a week, and operations to help Viviana’s body to function and grow without complication. Viviana found her place in the first Timmer orphanage and has grown and matured there in the loving care of her adopted parents Marcelino and Sofia.

All who know Viviana will tell of her contagious giggling, and her strength of character. Even during visits to hospital Viviana omits a zest for life, distilled in her by her loving and merciful Father.

  Rene

Rene suffered abuse in the home. He lives with scarring on his wrists, arms and chest from being tortured with hot knives, and lit matches thrown against his skin wet from alcohol.

Rene lives with missionaries Peter and Delia in Tiquipaya. In a house of 29 children Rene may well be the most active. He has a curious interest in household happenings and is often seen bopping and jiving, with or without backing music. He is fun-loving and very content in his new home environment.

These days Rene’s issues relate mainly to his education, and more specifically his ability to learn. Rene has been cleared to enter grade 3 but cannot write his own name.

Vague attempts for custody of Rene by his aunt (whose own son has a nail in his head) have concerned those that wish to protect him from harm. The aunt’s legal team and even the mayor have defended his family, claiming the abuse suffered is just part of the Bolivian culture.

In the short-term, Rene’s protection is assured.

  Moises

Another victim of abuse in the home, Moises has a 2 inch dent in his head after being hit with a shovel by his father during a psychotic episode. One can only imagine the force needed to impact a human skull in this way. By the grace of God, Moises is alive with no outward evidence of brain damage or lasting trauma.

While many kids are able to visit family members during the Christmas holidays and gain exposure to the real world, Moises and Rene cannot.

Peter and Delia have invested in Moises by helping him to learn a trade which will help him to gain steady employment when his schooling is finished.

  Milenka

Milenka was picked up by a security man after wandering from her glue-sniffing mother around 10pm one evening.

She loves to play and have fun, with a cute toothless smile and a mischievous streak. She can now grow in a loving family under the provision of Peter and Delia.

  Elisabeth

Little Elisabeth was left in a market with a small bag of possessions and told to wait there. Her mother did not return.

Elisabeth has some problems to overcome. During my stay Elisabeth was very disobedient, doing the exact opposite of everything she was asked to do. She would wander constantly, and harshly discipline the household dogs.

Peter and Delia have witnessed some change in her character, forgetting for a moment the time Elisabeth placed all of Peter’s cards and important documents in the fireplace. In time Elisabeth will adjust to her new life under the guidance of her adopted brothers and sisters.

  Zenobia

Zenobia is a quiet, loving girl who would constantly seek hugs and assurance. She has a deep sadness in her eyes. She has learning difficulties, and on occasion, through frustration would bang her head against a brick wall until her forehead began bleeding.

Through the Navidad en Bolivia program, Peter and Delia were able to organise a private tutor for the 4 children who needed the most help. Among these were Zenobia and Rene.

General Observations:

Some general thoughts about the orphaned and abandoned children I worked with in Bolivia:

• They look out for each other.
• Responsibility isn’t taken easily. While a natural household order sees the older children caring for the young, responsibility is an uncomfortable topic.
• Many are easily distracted, and have concentration problems.
• By default, hygiene is poor, but can be learned.
• Some have more bizarre traits as a result of the difficult lives they lead. e.g. an older girl would hide her unopened Christmas gifts until she had absolute privacy. Bed wetting was a problem for a couple of children.
• To share a meal with 30 abandoned children is an amazing experience. Wherever you look in the room there is a parent-less child who knows little or nothing of the gift of a stable family upbringing that many of us have enjoyed.
• The children are a reflection of society – of alcoholism, corruption, and abuse. When they are taken in, they exhibit as much hope as their desperate, lost parents.
• God is at work in all of the children I met. You can see His work in each child’s ability to cope, to embrace change and to redefine circumstance.

Q & A

After speaking about the children, I wanted to cover some of the written questions I received from the Wellspring community several weeks earlier.

What did the children teach you about Jesus in an unexpected way?

In these children you see that through all the misery and trauma, physical and psychological abuse, the human heart can still be changed through God’s love for them.

Even in Australia we see that children are more accepting of change…  but the characteristics of our fallen world remain constant. We are all forced to rationalise and respond to many forms of evil, children and adults alike. So to see children exposed, then adapting and shaping new lives, is a reflection of God’s love and absolute power and control.

Was it difficult to be a missionary and share God’s word and his son with a language barrier?

Yes, but working with kids is easier – us gringos can utilise more creative outlets for communication. Play-time is fun, and effective for teaching instruction and discipline e.g. soccer, team activities, games in the park.

On my first visit to a Spanish speaking country I felt it would be quite difficult to mentor young adults. I did not have the vocabulary to speak into their lives, and chose to invest in the younger children. If I were to return I would attempt to improve my spanish so that conversation with adults would not be inhibited by a language barrier.

You went to help and serve – what moments did you feel powerless to help?

Being foreigners, I feel there is a limit to how much we can (and should) do pastorally in countries like Bolivia. The best people to nurture and grow Bolivian communities spiritually are the Bolivians.

So there were many times when we felt we couldn’t help.

Although we are outsiders, we have much to offer. Some of these things include:

• Training and equipping nationals to contribute in ministry and community-building activities;
• Sharing God’s love, supporting and encouraging nationals in their journey;
• Developing infrastructure and facilities;
• Leading by example on matters of hygiene, self-worth, respect and love for others, and living with a servant heart;
• Mentoring and supporting nationals to serve their own people pastorally.

Stay tuned for the second installment in the Unpacking Bolivia series.

Somewhat belated, here’s one I drafted whilst on the ferry between Santorini and Athens but never posted online. Since returning to Australia, life has been a roastercoaster and I ought to document the last leg of trip before continuing to more recent events!

So here it is, the last post from my 11 months overseas:

Out of Bari, Italy, into Greece I sailed on the big Superfast Ferry. After 15 hours on the water the boat arrived in Patras, on of the larger Greek ports. In Patras I walked around in circles trying to find the train terminal, which was just 500m along the only road I hadn’t taken (this has happened too often).  With a minute to spare, I made the rattly rural train to Kiato which would connect to Athens. The small train from Kiato was clean and fast, but had way too many people on it. Twice the number of carriages were required.

I was fortunate to have a private room on the 3rd floor of my Athens hostel. Here I enjoyed free internet and the convenience of being close to the train terminal.

The following day I headed out to explore Athens. I began at the Acropolis, and spent a good amount of time marvelling at Herodes Atticus Theatre (memories of a Yanna concert filmed there) and the Parthenon. Unfortunately for me, the off-season bring out the workers, cranes, and scaffolding! Next I explored Ancient Agora, the flea market in the suburb of Plaka, the Temple of Zeus and the Panathinaiko Stadium. I had forgotten Greece had 2 Olympics in the ‘modern’ era (duh).

I got terribly lost in the afternoon walking outward from the city centre and wasted an hour or more finding a metro station!

The next morning I left Athens on an early ferry, bound for the Greek island of Santorini (Thira). I was able to leave my big pack in Athens, and travel with a wheely suitcase I bought in Sorrento. The ferry ride to Santorini was horrible! I didn’t think a boat that big could sway so much. I enjoyed a free transfer from the Fira port to my accommodation in the same town and was keen to rest during the evening.

I spent 3 days on the island of Santorini, the last stop on my 11 month journey. I spend a good amount of time exploring Fira, Oia, the Red Beach of Akrotiri and the Black Beach of Kamari. The volcano of Santorini has provided some very unique landscapes. I was privileged to communicate with family from the best internet shop the world has ever seen (the way electronic communication should be)! I also did some shopping for souvenirs (and icecream). I even got to see some blue sky at Santorini and have photos to proove it!

Right now I am sitting in the sun on the rear deck of a Blue Star Ferry bound for Athens. It’s a better day for sailing. Tomorrow I commence some 30 hours of flight time which will bring me home via Budapest, Frankfurt, Singapore and Sydney.

Needless to say I’m excited to be returning home to see friends and family, and ask for your prayers and patience as I attempt to readjust to life in Tasmania.

This marks the end of an exciting chapter in my life and the start of something new. Thanks for reading, following and supporting my trip in various ways. In the coming months I will try to reflect on a few aspects of my trip which are of interest to me. For now, though, thanks a million. God bless. A.

UP || Santorini | Parthenon | Temple of Zeus
DOWN || In Sydney | With Renny| With Dad

On the 19th of February, I travelled to Budapest, Hungary in readiness for my flight to Rome, Italy on the 20th. Needless to say, there wasn´t much time to get to know this city. As it turned out, a brief walk around the freezing capital was enough for me. Between the overnight train from Ljubljana, and an alarm clock set for 3.30am the following day, I was content just to sleep. And that I did.

It was nice to be in the air again, for the first time in a month. Airports are less dodgy than train terminals, and I found the Budapest airport to be very clean and well-organised. A window seat on entry to Rome was also well received!

Rome

I checked in earlier than I would normally and set off on the underground to visit the Colosseum. It certainly was a sight to see below blue skies, but difficult to appreciate its magnificence before entering the site. My map and I continued on to see various other sights, including the river area, Capitoline Hill, the Roman Forum, and the Pantheon.

The next morning I visited the Colosseum again, this time with the intention of going inside. I did some spying from a distance while I ate my breakfast, to discover which tour guides appeared to be the most reputable. While I was enjoying some youghurt a police car entered the crowd with urgency, weaving between groups of tourists. All of a sudden a mass of hawkers escaped from the crowd in a single direction – that is, anyone who did not have a license to sell what they were selling. The penalty must be decent to make them run that fast, but the method of catching them needs a rethink. It was sad to see all of these hawkers running with big smiles, an enjoyment of doing wrong.

I joined a tour group, and we enjoyed some stories about Russell Crowes (gladiators), tigers, virgins and emperors before heading inside the stadium. When inside it was still difficult to imagine the spectacle on offer during Roman times – but I’m sure the documentary would be called something like ¨The Colosseum: Death as Entertainment¨.

I had intended to visit Vatican City the next day, but this was brought forward as the Vatican would be closed on Sunday (The pope addresses an excited crowd in the main square at midday each Sunday). So off I went to the Vatican on the Saturday afternoon, with an Irish guy I met on the Colosseum tour named Cole. We entered St Peter’s Square and gazed with amazement for a while. We headed inside the Vatican Museum (costly, but worth it) and were cultured by many artistic interpretations of biblical events and other spiritual things! A long series of rooms, and several thousand exhibits lead us to the prize, the Sistine Chapel. Now, I´m not much into art, but Michelangelo´s work was unreal! I sinned and took a couple of photos which I intend to sell on the internet for a lot of money (that is a joke). We sat in the Sistine for a good while.

Despite giving myself a blister from walking so much, we continued on to St Peter´s Basilica. Now, I´m not big on religious structures, but St Peter´s Basilica was indescribably enormous and awesome. Well it should be, considering the Vatican stole (I mean relocated) a large portion of the precious marbles in Rome to stupendify this magnificent construction. Funny to note, in the Roman forum there is a ruin of a bank, 3 enormous half domes in a line, when viewed from the side. Where did the other half domes go? It´s a mystery, if you find them please call Caesar.

Cole and I had so much fun I decided to join him for a beer at his favourite Irish Pub in Rome. A sports bar, this place had 6 projections of different soccer/rugby events.

The following day started badly. I left the hostel without my camera, and convinced myself that it had been stolen at the pub. I visited the Capitoline Museum in the morning, and then returned to the Colosseum to receive the second half of my tour, over Palentine Hill. I was expecting Cole to turn up but he didn’t, so for fear of regret I entered with the tour group. Palentine Hill is Rome´s most ’sacred’ hill, where emperors have built their palaces. The end-point of our tour provided a panoramic view over Capitoline Hill, the Roman Forum, a theatre, a bank, temples, the main road, and of course, the Colosseum. An empire was laid out before us. Amazing. I returned to the hostel, where my camera had been anxiously waiting for me all day!

Cinque Terre

On Monday the 23rd I took the train north to Cinque Terre, a World Heritage park known for its marine life. Within the park there are 5 colourful villages. I checked into an apartment in the first village, Riomaggiore, then backtracked to the city of La Spezia for supplies (Cinque Terre is the most expensive area I have visited).

On the morning of the 24th I set out to see each of the 5 villages. A scenic walking track along the coast links the villages, but most of this was closed. I walked to Manarola, then caught the train to Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. These villages were very picturesque, my favourite was Vernazza (image below). I had one more day in Cinque Terre, and I decided to stay in Riomaggiore and laze by the water, enjoying the sun.

On the 25th I took a train to Pisa, dumped my backpack and went to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa. It sure does lean!! I wonder, if that tower was in Australia, would people be going up inside it?

Florence

Despite hearing many good things about Florence, it failed to impress me. Highlights of my time here were climbing to the top of the Duomo (Cathedral) bell tower, and eating berry flavoured gelato!

My hostel was also top rate, with free breakfast, free dinner, free internet, free walking tours and friendly service.

Sorrento

After hearing nasty things about Naples, I decided to stay in Sorrento on my way south. Sorrento is a sunny resort town some way down the coast, on a clear day Naples would be clearly visible.

On the 1st of March I took a day-trip to Pompei (just 20 minutes from Sorrento by train), and wandered through the ruins of Pompeii. The large Roman city was buried in ash when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79AD. Plaster casts have been made, capturing desperate expressions as residents died from toxic gas inhilation. It was a truly amazing site to explore, and very well preserved.
On the 2nd I took a train back to Naples, and another across Italy to the port of Bari, where I boarded an overnight ferry to Patras, Greece. I continued on to Athens, Greece the following day.

As a lone traveller, the abruptness and arrogance of the Italians I met really took the edge off my enthusiasm. In the end, I was quite happy to leave. I was sad to see so much aggression between people – arguing, shouting, and throwing hands around. In contrast, Italy itself is simply stunning.

Customer service: 5/10
Enjoyment: 7/10
Beer: 8/10
Comment: Rome is a must-see!! Save a bit harder for Italy though, it’s expensive.

Vernazza (Cinque Terre)

Dober Dan!

On Sunday 15th, I continued south-east from Vienna to the Slovene capital of Ljubljana. The 6.5 hour ride was particularly uneventful, at least it was before the train staff began pacing franticly around my carriage shouting at each other in Slovene and throwing their arms in the air. I was right in assuming that something was wrong with our train, and I looked out the window to see smoke pouring from the undercarriage (they suspected it was a brake problem). Someone had informed the train company who informed the train staff, but the train staff were unable to contact the engineer who receives his orders from Ljubljana station. Eventually the train stopped, the staff continued in a frenzy for a while and we arrived in Ljubljana just 30 minutes late.

I took a bus to Bled, arriving in the late afternoon. I ventured out to find food - a pizza so garlicky it made my tongue sting, and a refrigerated sample of the local red.

On Monday morning, I was in no hurry to confront the cold as there were thick clouds hanging over the Triglav National Park. Slowly they lifted, and I began to wander around beautiful Lake Bled. The lake isn’t that big, you could probably walk around it in an hour if you were a fast walker. But that’s just not my style! My only priority was to capture some photos which did justice to the beauty of the area.

And Bled is indeed a beautiful place. In the middle of the lake there is a small island, with steps leading up to the Church of the Assumption. Bled Castle is perched high above the township of Bled on a 125m cliff face. Behind all of this, the snow-capped peaks of Mt Triglav (and the Triglav national park).

It was nice to experience the tranquility of nature again. The lake was very still. The ducks seemed to be enjoying it, although I’m sure their little ducky butts were very cold! There were big white swans too… a lot of beauty to appreciate!

I enjoyed my walk so much that I walked around the lake again the following day, this time detouring to another hilltop via chair lift. The weather was slightly better than before.

On the morning of my departure, I was tempted by blue skies to walk around the lake once more, but I changed my mind once greeted by a wind chill of -10°C. I visited the Bled Castle instead.

During the afternoon I returned to Ljubljana, where I would wait to catch my 2am train to Budapest, Hungary. My evening was going particularly well, just killing time in a new city. I returned to the waiting room at 9.30pm, but at 10pm the big security guards came around to lock everything up, including the waiting room, the toilets, everything. So with 4 hours left to wait, I was out in the cold.

I enjoyed my time in Slovenia. It is true that the Slovenes are friendly people who are happy to use English with foreigners. Most greeted me in English (see I knew it must be obvious to them!).

I was in Hungary for less than a day, taking an early flight to Rome on the 20th. If I was forced to say anything about Budapest, it wouldn’t be particularly flattering. In fairness I should see the city in the Summer before commenting (I liked the airport!)

Slovenia
Customer service: 9/10
Enjoyment: 8/10
Beer: 7/10 (Quite different, but I could get used to it! No beer on tap because it’s too cold)
Comment: The Slovenians make a lovely vanilla slice called kremsnita. It’s very nice!

Lake Bled, Slovenia.

On the 7th of February I continued north from Salzburg, Austria to Prague in the Czech Republic. Czech’s customer service rating plummetted on arrival with the rudest and most unhelpful receptionist (so far) there to greet me. Despite low expectations, this still took me by surprise.

My first day in Prague was to a large degree wasted. I went into the city to look around, a bitterly cold morning with no promise of sunshine. I located the Old Town and gazed at the magnificent St Nicholas and Tyn churches. I attempted to find the river without a map and failed miserably, wasting a good part of the afternoon wandering dirty backstreets. By this time I still had less then $5 cash, as I waited for a transfer to replenish my available funds (a long weekend in Tasmania didn’t help).

My second day in Prague was very different. I was able to retrieve some funds, and joined a ‘free’ (before tips) tour of the main sights, led by an Englishman. The tour was very enjoyable and I saw the Old Town, the Astronomical Clock, Charles Bridge, the Lennon Wall and the Prague Castle (including St Vitus Cathedral). I learnt more about the Habsburg Empire, Czech rulers, WWII, the soviet invasion, and other events which defined Czechoslovakia before it found independence in 1993. I also had the pleasure of visiting film locations for xXx, Mission Impossible and The Bourne Identity, and the song “Never tear us apart” by INXS (The cemetary in the Jewish Quarter). I need to see these movies again, especially xXx, when Vin Diesel (or his stunt double) parachutes onto a waterborn missile cruising up Prague’s Vltava River. In filming this scene, the first stunt man to try to parachute under the bridge died (He hit the bridge).

On my last day in Prague, I decided to day trip to Kutna Hora, a medieval village an hour away by train. Among other things, Kutna Hora is known for Sedlec Ossuary (the bone church), a chapel crypt which contains the bones of 40000-70000 people arranged in the form of pyramids, garlands, a chandelier and the Schwarzenberg coat of arms. It was very cool, and a little creepy – hard to see clearly the message of life where there is so much death! Kutna Hora wasn’t quite as good as I thought it might be, but my enthusiasm may had frozen when the sun disappeared.

On the 11th, I travelled south to Cesky Krumlov after deciding not to travel to Croatia on this trip (it’s apparently very wet). My day could have started better. An attempt was made on my wallet in the Prague underground, I was shortchanged 50 crowns at a station cafeteria, and two machines ripped me off (At least 5 times during my stay in Prague, ticket machines had eaten my coins for no reason). All of this left a very nasty taste in my mouth, and my view of the Czech Republic may not have improving much since.

Granted, history endured by the Czechs doesn´t give them much to smile about, and less reason to greet this English-speaker with a smile. And they certainly didn´t. They speak English but it seems that they´d rather not. Based on the people I met during my visit to the Czech Republic (as not to make assertions about the entire population), I don´t think I could have felt less welcome there.

But to end this entry with a happier tone…

Cesky Krumlov may be the most photographable place I’ve visited, with the Vltava River arching around the Old Town, and narrow streets crammed with Renaissance and Baroque buildings. It’s obvious they haven’t let anything jeopardise the authenticity of this unique village. I enjoy two whole days wandering around the village, and the highlight was the heavy snow falling on the first day. I also discovered a local treasure, Medovnik (Honey Cake)!! It´s a Czech thing, or maybe Jewish originally? Either way it´s delicious and I will be attempting to make it when I return home!

Today I returned to Vienna, on my way south to Slovenia. During the afternoon I escaped the cold at the Australian Pub, and enjoyed a big fat beef burger with egg, beetroot, bacon, lettuce, and real aussie chips on the side. Oh, and Fosters on tap! Call this a mini-celebration, with ten months done and one month left to go.

Czech Republic
Customer service: 5/10
Enjoyment: 6/10
Beer: 9/10 (Lonely Planet labelled Czech beer the best in the world. Not sure anyone can make a call like that! I enjoyed the Pilsener Urquell).
Comments: Good on Australia for banning smoking in public spaces.

Cesky Krumlov

From Lauterbrunnen I ventured on to Salzburg, Austria, taking a very scenic route through German cities of cand Munich. The landscape seemed to grow more peaceful as I approached Austria from the west. The rolling hills between the larger cities boasted serious snow cover, and it was amazing to view from a warm train cabin.

On Tuesday I set out to conquer Salzburg, but had difficulty getting to the right places with a map full of German names. German has been a pain in the, erm… Unfortunately I didn’t see where Mozart was born or lived. I discovered that he didnt actually want to be here, but the city loves the little man!

I did pay to enter the Festung Fortress, and wandered for a good while through various sections. It was a nice tourist site, with museum, restaurant, audio tour and an observation deck from which you can photograph the city. I did wonder at times how authentic things were, some walls and doors seemed a bit too clean and new.

The following day I walked to where Julie Andrews sung Do Re Mi with the kids in the Sound of Music, but I’m afraid the gardens were looking a bit drab. I  sacrificed several fingers to the cold in conquering a look-out behind the newer part of the city. It was worth it. I then took a three hour train ride to Vienna (the shortest rail journey between cities so far) where I had a very modern room all to myself. Vienna is the birth place of waltz. Did you know that?

I explored the area around the hostel in the evening and enjoyed a Chicken Doner Kebab, before returning to my room to watch some quality TV (well, a CNN kind of quality).

Next morning I entered the city at Stephen’s Dome, and wandered down Graben and Kohlmarket to the Imperial Palace. I looked around each part of the palace from the outside, perhaps the biggest building of its kind that I’ve seen. I walked through the Volksgarten (again, no colour in the gardens), to City Hall and Parliament. A large ice skating ring had been constructed in front of the City Hall. All of these buildings were very big and impressive, but a thick fog and strong glare made it difficult to take nice photos.

I had to decide between three attractions, as I would only enter one that day. There are lots of things to do in Vienna, but this was my short list:

1. The Imperial Apartments, Sisi Museum, and Silver Collection, as recommended by Lonely Planet. This offered a look at life within the Habsburg Dynasty, Emperor Franz Joseph I and his wife Empress Elisabeth.
2. Albertina. An art gallery containing works by Monet, Picasco and others.
3. Belvedere. An art gallery containing works by Gustav Klimt’s, including ‘The Kiss’.

I chose the first option, a three in one ticket which would move me through a large collection of silverware used in the Imperial Palace, including large sets created for special occassions/uses or as gifts from other govts/empires. I then entered the Sisi Museum, which stepped through the life of reluctant empress Elisabeth, a free wandering spirit whose entry into the Royal family saw her turn to bitterness and solitude (and depressing poetry). She is remembered fondly, a bit like Princess Di! The story continued as I entered the Imperial Apartments and saw each room used by the Royals. My ‘free’ audio guide providing very helpful commentary, making the experience very worthwhile.

In the early afternoon I took the underground to the Danube Tower. Bad choice to go up, but the berry sundae was delicious (the cafe was 157m up). There was no view of the city as the glare from the low winter sun was worse up there, particularly in the direction of the sites I’d seen during the morning.

From my extremely brief account, I observed the Austrian people to be less friendly than the Swiss, something of how I imagine the Russians and Turks to be. I did receive kind, pleasant service, but it was shared in a cold way. That may not make sense! On the whole I did enjoy my time in Austria, and would happily visit again.

I’m now in Prague, living very quietly through my own little economic crisis. My card balances are low and I’m waiting for a transfer to happen. So, for now, I exist in Europe with 64CZK ($4.50AUD) at my disposal. Let’s just say I’m looking forward to the stimulus package!

Austria
Customer service: 7/10
Enjoyment: 7/10
Beer: 7/10

Another long day of rail took me from Nice, through Northern Italy into Switzerland. Much to my delight, we entered the endless snowscape long before Milan. On the train to Brig I shared a cabin with a famous opera singer from New York named Peter Castaldi, and a Swiss/Italian neurosurgeon. Interesting conversation!

Leaving the warm train in Lauterbrunnen at 8pm was a shock to the system, but I was prepared with several extra layers at the ready. My hostel was a refuge from the cold, a cosy alpine lodge in the valley. At night I could see the Muerren funicular climbing steeply out of the valley, and a cable car rising on the opposite side.

On the morning of February 1, I threw my budget in the bin, and ventured out to experience the Swiss mountains. I caught a bus to Stechelberg and then the world’s longest series of cable cars, climbing 2050m to Schilthorn (2971m, 9748ft), and the Piz Gloria site. This trip was spectacular, an elevator to a landscape of only the highest peaks in the Jungfrau region, including Eiger (3970m), Mönch (4099m) and Jungfrau (4158m). Piz Gloria contains a revolving restaurant for people like me, and is the highest starting point for skiing on this pass. It is also a proud film location for the Bond flick “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” (1969), starring George Lazenby. I enjoyed a red wine in the restaurant, and hung around to see how much the view would improve. I would walk the terrace  enjoying the view before retreating inside as the -15°C began to cut through the clothing! With a bit more blue sky the view/weather would have been perfection!

I returned to the valley, stopping once to visit Muerren, a small ski village full of authentic snow lodges with no cars.  This was very pretty and if I ever return I will be sure to stay in Muerren for a few nights.

The next day I visited Interlaken. I wandered around her for a while, then took an elevator to the Metropole, a restaurant within a hotel. The 16th storey offered great views of the city and surrounding snow capped peaks. I returned to Lauterbrunnen and wandered around until dusk taking photos, before returning to the warm hostel. In the morning I would train to Austria.

Switzerland
Customer service: 9/10
Enjoyment: 9/10 (figure adjusted)
Beer: 8/10

Arriving at sunny beaches and a warmer climate would come at a price. On the morning of the 28th I left my hostel in search of Barcelona’s “Frans” station, and my train to Montpellier, France. I took a subway train to a nearby station in order to connect, but from there saw no way to get to Frans station. I panicked and backtracked to the central Sants station, and there learnt that Frans was not on the subway grid (even though it was on the map with lines going to it from every direction!) It would take a ’special’ train to get there, on a special platform at a special (less frequent) departure time. It went down to the wire… I arrived at Frans with 9 minutes to spare, and boarded my train bound for Montpellier.

At Montpellier, I stuffed up again. This time I got the right platform, but the wrong train. Luckily that train went to Marseille and I was able to find the right train which had arrived minutes earlier. It was a long unpleasant day of rail to Nice. I much prefer days which do not require punctionality, especially when I am in new places.

My first day in the French Riviera was spent in Nice. I went down to the beautiful waterfront, bought some breakfast and sat on the beach enjoying the sun’s warmth, just like Paris Hilton might do in the Summer with her poodle. I walked to a nearby lookout for some postcard shots of Nice, and wandered around some more before returning to the hostel. I had dinner with some Australian girls I’d met the previous evening, and we were later joined by a Canadian. The Australians were leaving the following day, but had time for an outing in the morning so the four of us decided to visit Monaco together.

Around 10am we left and on the way, stopped at Eze Village, a small castle-like dwelling on top of a column of rock extending from a valley by the coast. This was a beautiful quaint little village, and very photogenic! We continued onto Monaco, and walked down through the city towards the casino. The gardens by the casino were amazing, but I was quickly distracted by the sports cars rolling past, one by one. I was shocked to see 9 Ferraris in less than an hour, and numerous other top end cars. Typically, the girls were more interested in looking at jewellery. They found a $40,000 watch for sale in a nearby shop window. We had a good day looking around and I saw the Australian girls leave for Avignon in the evening. I was given no good news about my own trip to Switzerland the following day, so anxiously returned to the hostel to research, and bug Renae for more urgent assistance. It would take 5 trains to reach my next stop.

I’m still pushing through a cold which has brought my energy levels right down. My room in Nice wasn’t a great help – cold and damp, but the hostel was still the best so far. 

France
Customer service: 7/10 (but avoided people due to language constraint!)
Enjoyment: 7/10
Beer: 8/10 (mostly german)